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Thread: Pulling the seats out

  1. #1
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    Pulling the seats out

    A quick tip for pulling the seats out. Most of this is obvious when you think about it. Of course, I didn't think about it, hence the tip.

    Use the seat motor to raise the seat to it's limit before starting the removal process. You will appreciate the seat in the raised position as you are standing on your head trying to separate the electrical connector under the seat. And after the seat is on the workbench, you'll find the plastic cover on the side is much easier to remove and replace with the seat bottom raised.

    Back to that electrical connector - the piece of plastic that kind of wraps around the end is the connection release. Pull it longitudinally towards the rear of the car and the connector will happily separate. Yes, that was very hard to figure out standing on my head with the seat bottom in the lowered position.

    I didn't actually figure the seat position thing out until both seats were on the workbench and I was putting the side covers back on. One was really easy and one was really hard. Well, one seat bottom was in the up position and one seat bottom was down.

  2. #2

  3. #3
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    The seat backs weren't all the way tight so I suspected that the clips had broken free. And since the dash was apart due to removing the center console for replacement, it seemed like a great time to have all the painted pieces polished. So I pulled the seats, and sent the dash, console and seat painted pieces to a detailer for polishing. Luckily all the seat back clips were intact, just broken free. Matt Carver recommended Wurthers Fix All epoxy, which seems to have worked great. Which reminds me of another tip:

    If you have to re-glue any of the seat back clips, peel off the old glue. Be careful if you use a scraper. There are little positioning bumps/ridges on the seat back that help with positioning the clips in the correct place and you don't want to scrape those off. I was thinking of leaving some of the old glue as positioning guides, but it turns out the best thing to do is peel off all the old glue and use the factory positioning marks.

  4. #4
    Sport Button On - DSC Off Z8DinanS2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MauiMike View Post
    The seat backs weren't all the way tight so I suspected that the clips had broken free. And since the dash was apart due to removing the center console for replacement, it seemed like a great time to have all the painted pieces polished. So I pulled the seats, and sent the dash, console and seat painted pieces to a detailer for polishing. Luckily all the seat back clips were intact, just broken free. Matt Carver recommended Wurthers Fix All epoxy, which seems to have worked great. Which reminds me of another tip:

    If you have to re-glue any of the seat back clips, peel off the old glue. Be careful if you use a scraper. There are little positioning bumps/ridges on the seat back that help with positioning the clips in the correct place and you don't want to scrape those off. I was thinking of leaving some of the old glue as positioning guides, but it turns out the best thing to do is peel off all the old glue and use the factory positioning marks.

    YES!!!! This point cannot be over-emphasized. Particularly the bottom clips because they must line up exactly in order to snap into place. Use the guides in the plastic back to position the clips EXACTLY.

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