Changing oil.

**macfly** · April 22nd 2005, 16:47

Do it yourself. It's really very easy.

Engine should be warmed up first so the oil will flow easily when you suck it out. Before proceeding, get a rag or small pan to catch dripping oil from the filter when you remove it. Begin by unscrewing the black plastic cap from the oil filter canister located on the driver's side of the engine compartment, near the windshield. The nut on top of the cap is a 36mm. If you don't have a socket that big, you can use an adjustable wrench; just be careful it doesn't slip. When you remove the cap, which has the filter attached to it, most of the oil will drain back into the oil pan but some will remain in the canister. Unsnap the old filter from the cap by pulling on it. Now pry off the large O-ring which is located in a groove near the top of the cap and replace it with the new one that came with your oil filter. Use a little oil on your finger to lubricate the O-ring so it has a thin coat on it.

Now snap the new oil filter onto the cap and make sure your hear it "click" in place. Now use your oil evacuator to suck out any remaining oil in the oil canister, then pour in enough new oil to fill the canister about half way. BMW skips this step but I want the oil system to get pressurized as quickly as possible when starting the engine so I like to "prime" the oil filter canister. Now put the cap with attached oil filter back into the canister and snug it all the way down. Keep an eye on the O-ring to make sure it doesn't get pinched. Now pull out the dipstick and stick your oil evacuator's tube down into the engine's sump until you feel it bottom out. Suck out as much oil as possible. Remove the evacuator's tube, put the dipstick back in, and fill the engine sump with Castrol 10w60 oil until the dipstick indicates you are at the minimum fill level. Now start the engine, make sure the engine oil light goes off quickly, check to make sure no oil is leaking from the filter canister, let the motor run until the temperature gauge indicates normal operating temp has been reached, then turn the engine off, wait about a minute or so, then check the oil level again on the dipstick and fill to maximum level (do not overfill!) Pat yourself on the back.

As far as the copper washer in the oil filter kit is concerned, I have a 2001 and a 2003 Z8 and neither of them has a bolt holding the canister lid down. My lids have a 36mm nut on top which is a molded part of the cap. I checked the BMW service manual for 2000 model Z8's to see if the earlier ones had a different set up but it showed the same setup I have. Perhaps someone with an early car can confirm that they have a different oil filter canister setup than the later cars. As far as I know, the copper washer supplied with the new oil filter is to be used to replace the sealing washer on the oil pan drain plug. Since you are sucking the oil out from above, you don't have to remove that drain plug so the washer is superfluous. And, since there have been reports of stripped drain plugs on Z8s, I think this method is the best way to go.

Hope this helps!
Grease Monkey

**Robert Linton** · May 1st 2005, 18:56

But which oil do you use?

**macfly** · May 2nd 2005, 20:09

but I'm not sure what the Alpina's oil specs are, but the Z8 Club BMW have very specific specs for the S62, which are posted here.

**Jonny** · October 8th 2005, 14:23

Bought a Mytivac hand pump, new filter and 16 Qts of Castrol 10w60. Was really easy with the pump but don't forget to place rag around filter cannister.

Why pay the stealer $$$$$. Tip: buy the electric version of the pump. I know that sounds lazy but if I'm changing my own oil that's not an issue. The hand pump takes some time and with the electric version it will give you some time to clean engine bay.

Thanks Mac - Oh! I did a test run on the M5 first just in case.

**macfly** · October 8th 2005, 15:48

but it would certainly be a great idea. Which one of the Mytivac pumps did you use?

PS: Amazon are selling all their products at really great prices!

**Jonny** · October 11th 2005, 14:05

Maybe mistaken about the electric pump but I'll research it and get back to you. Jonny

**2112** · March 5th 2006, 03:02

Electric pumps are available at nearly all Marine Parts stores.

Try this one from Westmarine.

**2112** · October 22nd 2006, 01:51

Originally Posted by macfly

but I'm not sure what the Alpina's oil specs are. BMW have very specific specs for the S62, which are posted here.

I am also a Mobil 1 devotee. I am moving up to 15-50 to reduce the VANOS clicking. Additives in Mobil 1 are (IMHO) much better than Castrol etc.

**2112** · October 23rd 2006, 03:39

Originally Posted by Jonny

Bought a Mytivac hand pump, new filter and 16 Qts of Castrol 10w60. Was really easy with the pump but don't forget to place rag around filter cannister.

Why pay the stealer $$$$$. Tip: buy the electric version of the pump. I know that sounds lazy but if I'm changing my own oil that's not an issue. The hand pump takes some time and with the electric version it will give you some time to clean engine bay.

Thanks Mac - Oh! I did a test run on the M5 first just in case.

What is the capacity? I have 12 quarts, do I need 4 more?

Z8Mania · October 25th 2006, 12:45

I would recommend these engines be fed Castrol TWS 10W60 as this is the oil the rest of the world is told to use and after some discussions with Z8 owners with more mechanical knowledge this is the advice I have gotten.

Now, Andrew, what are you doing with the waste oil?

**2112** · October 26th 2006, 05:25

Thanks but I will pass on the castrol products. I have been using Mobil in extreme duty marine engine for years and am strongly biased. It is a Ford/Chevy thing.

Capacity???

**2112** · October 29th 2006, 00:34

Capacity: Just under 8 quarts.

I don't know how the Castrol 10-60 did but the mobil 15-50 instantly eliminated all the VANOS noise and noticably quieted the engine down.

**RRZ8** · November 22nd 2006, 21:17

@Z8 Mania; Castrol TWS 10W-60 is indeed what BMW & Castrol advise over here in The Netherlands

@ 2112; how is it possible that the engine quietes down just by using another oil ?

**macfly** · November 22nd 2006, 22:00

how is it possible that the engine quietes down just by using another oil ?

For some reason I can't answer BMW NA have had a long running recommendation for a much thinner 10-30W oil for the S62 motors here in the US. I have heard it said that this will allow the mechanics to transmit sound a little more, while a thicker oil will soften the sound a bit.

If you have been diving you know how sound is carried in water, but it gets trapped in treacle. I know thats an extreme exageration, but you get the idea. Hopefully our team scientist FWK-Z8 will be able to expalin it more elegantly.

**2112** · November 23rd 2006, 07:09

The higher viscosity oil does not drain back into the sump as easy as the lightweight oil. The VANOS ticking was always worse after the car sat. That issue is gone for me.

I personally believe Mobil 1 is the top synthetic motor oil. Most race engine builders advise it's use. The use the best base stock and have the most # and the most sophisticated additives.

**RRZ8** · November 23rd 2006, 17:50

But I assume that for every advantage there is a disadvantage too; what would be the negative effect of a thicker oil ? More engine wear every (cold) start ? More engine wear in colder areas ?

(p.s; in my Z8 manual (2001) the oil recommendation is synthetic 0Wx or 5Wx where x stands for 30,40 and 50, when did BMW change that? Or did Castrol do that?)

**2112** · November 24th 2006, 05:08

You are undoubtedly correct. Higher viscosity oil also sticks to parts better than lower viscosity. The VANOS noise drove me nuts. I believe the factory made the recommendation for thicker oil to resolve this issue. If the thicker oil actually does shorten the span between rebuilds, I will take that risk. I don't drive my car ehough to probably reach that threashold soon anyway

.

**RRZ8** · November 26th 2006, 18:48

Speaking to an 'oil-specialist' I also heard that thicker oil is more likely to 'foam' at some point ?

**2112** · November 26th 2006, 22:27

My knowledge, which is based on building big horse boat engines, would be that if you keep your sump oil off the reciprocating assembly, foaming will be held to a minimum.

Not trying to win converts, just expressing my opinion. VANOS noise bothered me so much I was willing to make some compromises.

**harvey2** · December 12th 2010, 02:10

Have you noticed how checking oil level is a finicky affair? For example, today I changed the oil and filter. When pouring the new oil in, I brought it up to about 1/3 of the way between low and high marks on the stick. The normal procedure is then to warm the engine up and check oil level again, and we would expect it to have risen on its own, roughly another 1/2 of the distance between low and high marks. That has been my experience in the past. But today was a bit different. I warmed the engine up for about 15 minutes, on idle and the temp gauge was not quite at its normal point, but very close. Then I shut down and waited about 2 minutes or maybe bit more and then checked level. This time it was about 1/3 below the low mark, just wetting the bottom bulb of the stick. That was different than previous experience. Anyway, i then put in some more to bring it up to 1/2 way between low and high and I'll trim it after a short drive tomorrow warms the car up properly. I'm aware that my parking spot has a slight incline and have found in the past that you have to have the car dead level to get a true reading, so I'll be sure to have it level tomorrow. Sure is finicky, eh?

(ps: seemed appropriate to tack this on to Andrew's old post, hope you don't mind)

**Scott Pettit** · December 13th 2010, 01:54

Why are you making it such a task? Just suck out the old oil and put in the prescribed amount of new oil.

**thegunguy** · December 13th 2010, 03:37

Originally Posted by Scott Pettit

Why are you making it such a task? Just suck out the old oil and put in the prescribed amount of new oil.

Because, that's the procedure for changing oil on the S62. Oil is much more than just lubricant in our engine. It activates the VANOS as well. So, changing the oil is not the simple procedure you suggest, but I'm sure Harvey will appreciate your "helpful" reply.

Harvey, I've seen the same fluctuation once or twice. I've chalked it up to not fully warming the oil prior to draining, but it doesn't seem to cause any issues if I top off to the proper level on the second reading. I'm sure your using TMS 10w60.

**redz8** · December 13th 2010, 05:54

So, I wonder what method the BMW service departments follow?

**Norcal** · December 13th 2010, 15:36

You would think that draining all the oil and adding the prescribed amount back, should be fool proof? Topping off, is a different matter.

**harvey2** · December 13th 2010, 21:50

Yes indeed Gunguy, I'm using the TWS 10W-60. I order it in from BavAuto because up here in Canada only the BMW dealers carry the stuff at $18.85 a litre and I don't like spending more than I have to. I get the Mann filter at the same time.

redz8: the reason I'm doing my own is that the last time the dealer put oil in there, about two years ago, they put in the "other" BMW oil ( I neglected to insist on the TWS10W-60) and they overfilled the engine by about 3/4 of a litre. I think they had a junior tech do the fill who didn't know the procedure.

Norcal: I agree, you would think that its not a big deal, take out 7.x litres and put in 7.x litres. Trouble is that my oil extraction device, one of those hand pump types with a white plastic tank, has calibration marks and the amount I take out seems to be only 5.7L but it takes exactly 7 one-litre bottles of oil to bring it back up. So I need to recalibrate that oil extractor before I trust to put in exactly what I take out.

**thegunguy** · December 13th 2010, 22:34

That's a great idea, Harvey. I've got a vacuum driven Mityvac that I bought primarily for bleeding brakes (makes it a breeze when you have a heavily tracked car), but it only holds 2L. I've been looking at getting a larger reservoir, as it's a pain to empty mid flush on the S62, but manually calibrating the volume is an excellent idea. It'd be interesting to track any losses.

One does wonder if we should buy tank space to store a couple million tons of TWS for us all to enjoy.

On the subject of what others do, if it's not Dana or Matt, I ask a LOT of questions.

**redz8** · December 14th 2010, 00:50

I'm happy to say that at Irvine BMW they seem to always place their most senior mechanic to work on Z8s. At least that has been my experience.

**harvey2** · December 14th 2010, 02:29

The extractor that I use looks something like this, only a bit thinner and taller:

http://www.princessauto.com/workshop...luid-extractor

It holds about 7 1/2 litres.

**Scott Pettit** · December 14th 2010, 03:32

The reason that you get less out than you are supposed to put in is the fact that there are nooks and crannys that retain oil and the only way to completely remove it is to remove the pan and that is not necessary. Even the oil filters will retain a certain amount of oil. If you do not remove the oil via the dip stick and really want to drain the engine, park it on ramps and let it drain overnight. You will not get it all but it helps.

As far as the Vanos and our special engines. All of my BMWs have Vanos and the oil change procedure is the same. I am well into 6 digits of spirited driving on one of my Z's and not ONE SINGLE problem. The compression is great and the Vanos is like new (yep, it's been inspected when a company wanted to use it as a demo case for their Vanos rebuild kit but it wasn't needed).

I agree that the oil level should be checked as it is replaced but to the extent that was previously mentioned. I do always check the level after each quart (past 3) to insure that I don't overfill but beyond that it's overkill. I do recommend that everyone run the engine for a few minutes after filling the crankcase (before driving) to insure proper levels.

While we are talking about oil, how often does everyone change theirs?

**macfly** · December 14th 2010, 04:33

All fluids every other year, which is usually around 4,000 miles.

**redz8** · December 14th 2010, 05:25

All fluids every year, but that's probably extreme. Oil, twice a year.

**Norcal** · December 14th 2010, 06:49

oil about every 3,000 mi (once a year?)

**macfly** · December 14th 2010, 07:07

We're all obsessed, I think its meant to be 15,000 miles isn't it? I thought I was nutz, so I'm very happy to see the other inmates are more so!

**zilver8** · December 14th 2010, 13:49

Originally Posted by Scott Pettit

While we are talking about oil, how often does everyone change theirs?

Once a year (about 1200 miles). I know that's extreme but I get it changed just before winter as the car sits in the garage during the winter months.

**macfly** · December 14th 2010, 17:58

That's a cool shot!

Z8Mania · December 14th 2010, 21:00

Agreed.

I get it changed annually as well. Sometimes thats 2000 miles/ sometimes thats 500 miles.

**thegunguy** · December 14th 2010, 23:48

I'm "generally" on an annual cycle too, regardless of miles.

**harvey2** · December 15th 2010, 01:16

Mine gets changed "sorta" annually. This means that I start thinking about changing after one year, but when I finally get around to it might be months later, so perhaps I'm really on an 18 month average schedule, which means about 4000km. I'm told that oil is hygroscopic (another fun word to amaze your friends with) which means that it absorbs water over time and this degrades it. So it is wise to change your oil based on months rather than miles if you drive the car very little.

**Scott Pettit** · December 15th 2010, 04:01

Yep. BMW and every manufacturer of synth oil sez 15K and most hard core folks will tell you (if they flat out aren't laughing at you) that changing more frequently than 15k is a huge waste of $$$.

Personally, I go for the mileage or every 2 years, whichever comes first.

Another question, for those who drain the oil rather than suck it out, are you on a C.O.M.P and if so, which one?

**JohnAnthony** · December 7th 2011, 04:39

question regarding Z8 oil changes...

is it common knowledge among Z8 owners that the Z8 requires activation of "scavenging solenoids"/"oil switch valves" to release additional oil during oil changes?

reference:

http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e39...y-e39m5-4.html

http://bmwz8.us/vbb/showpost.php?p=29948&postcount=71

**ron's rocket** · December 7th 2011, 19:36

I usually use my oil syphon, but I had the car up on a rack for some other work and used the drain plug for the last oil change. After reading about over torquing the plug (and stripping the oil pan threads) I used care when reinstalling it, but it's dripping now...wondering if the plug is too loose or if I stripped the threads.

**2112** · December 10th 2011, 20:59

Is Everyone adding Swepco?

"Swepco 502 oil additive. The Swepco 502 oil additive is recommended by BMW as it does a wonderful job of keeping the extremely small oil passages within the Vanos clean and the Vanos operating properly".

from Shadowman's project site;http://www.discovery-automotive.com/...1355fba69c0aa6PS, for those in central CA, Discovery Automotive is another reliable Z8 service source. I had all my FGT upgrades done there and I usually do most everything myself.

.

**JohnAnthony** · December 10th 2011, 21:57

Originally Posted by 2112

Is Everyone adding Swepco?

"Swepco 502 oil additive. The Swepco 502 oil additive is recommended by BMW as it does a wonderful job of keeping the extremely small oil passages within the Vanos clean and the Vanos operating properly".

from Shadowman's project site;http://www.discovery-automotive.com/...1355fba69c0aa6PS, for those in central CA, Discovery Automotive is another reliable Z8 service source. I had all my FGT upgrades done there and I usually do most everything myself.

.

pretty sure any recommendations BMW makes are found on their website not D/As

**2112** · December 10th 2011, 23:40

You are seriously bothered by my post?

1) the recommendation is BMW's as quoted by D/A
2) the link shows only BMW recommended fluids/filter
3) The link was added because it is another source of Z8 information regarding service and modification of a particular Z8. Some may find that interesting.

There are other businesses that support our car mentioned on this site. I am a fan of D/A after my good experience there much like those who may have had a great experience at Peter Pan or others. I am not posting a recommendation made in disagreement with BMW (unless I state it as my opinion only), but there has been little mention of the subject of swepco here so I thought I would add it for discussion. Sites like this are more interesting if different subject matter is introduced for discussion.

Are the M5board links you are posting share only factory authorized information or are they sharing data that may or may not be sanctioned and distributed by BMW?

Sheesh.

.

**macfly** · December 10th 2011, 23:44

I never heard of Swepco, but Discovery do absolutely amazing work, and I'm sure that they wouldn't suggest something without knowing exactly what it is and what it improves. When you're turning the S62 into a 750hp supercharged monster you can't take risks with oils!

**2112** · December 10th 2011, 23:54

Bill, the owner of D/A and I had a long talk about this. I have been a fan of aftermarket oils because in of my experience in custom built boat engines.

He is a firm believer of using OEM recommended oils and additives (not aftermarket) and keeping them extremely fresh. His argument was well made and made me a believer regarding the carefully engineered engines in our cars.

It is a dreary rainy Saturday up here. Just trying to stir the conversation among fellow car guys.

.

**JohnAnthony** · December 11th 2011, 00:40

Originally Posted by 2112

Are the M5board links you are posting share only factory authorized information or are they sharing data that may or may not be sanctioned and distributed by BMW?

Sheesh.

.

My skepticism is with no source for the recommendation on the part of D/A...

Also you seemed to be inquiring as to the use of swepco by z8 owners..

...plenty of indies make recommendations on bmw's behalf...

But would you really counter my skepticism by outweighing the benefit of source material to the infringement of copyright laws?

(or do you mean that the material was possibly fabricated by those posting it - as i implied about D/As recommendation?)

**2112** · December 11th 2011, 06:23

No, I was not questioning the material posted on the M5 boards and could care less about copyright laws on this trivial matter.

My point was you post material presented by others for the use and enjoyment of members here. Whether someone follows someone's servicing procedure because of it is up to them. I doubt you will find many here will jump on board of something without due diligence.

To satisfy your complaint, I will confirm the source of the Swepco recommendation. Stay tuned

**Norcal** · December 11th 2011, 16:35

Please do look into the source... I am interested to see if and what BMW may have to say about it. Thanks

**2112** · December 11th 2011, 21:05

It has been years since the TSB was issued. Bill will attempt to get another copy so that I can share it with you. Stay tuned, may take few days.

.

Z8Mania · December 11th 2011, 22:00

I dont change the oil in my car myself, I just have the dealer do it. I am a nut about making sure they put in 10W60 and there have been a few times they accidentally put 5W30 in her and I make it known we have to switch it out. Oh the fun.

**Norcal** · December 12th 2011, 00:10

I actually ran 5w30 for a year or so, prior to the subsequent clarification. Now only TSW

**efc** · March 30th 2015, 02:00

Planning on doing next oil change myself, I see above many are siphoning it via dipstick?! I do this on my jetskis etc, Why not via drainplug on the Z8? Is it not easily accessible I am always concerned about not getting all the oil out via the siphoning process and any oil left in the pan probably has more "debris" in it.

**boomster** · March 30th 2015, 03:19

Convenience is probably the primary reason for using the Mityvac, along with eliminating the risk of stripping the oil pan plug. Plus, I do it myself so I know it is done right and I know exactly what oil (Castrol TWS 10w/60) is going back in. I have always found the Mityvac extracts pretty much exactly the amount of oil specified as the capacity of the motor in question. If you warm the car before changing the oil, any "debris" should be suspended in the oil you are draining.

Bill

**efc** · April 4th 2015, 01:28

Performed oil and filter change today. One of the easiest ! Filter of course easy to get at. Drain plug as well!! No crazy pans to remove! (My Ford GT pans , diffuser, over 20screes to remove!). Drain plug on Z8 small (13mm). Can see concern about stripping or even snapping it if tighten too much. With new copper washer supplied with filter really not an issue. Would encourage anyone to "do it themselves"!

**screenap** · August 30th 2017, 17:27

As I mentioned in another post, I recently bought a place that has a car lift in its garage. Is there any reason other than access to easily lifting the car that one should use the suction approach listed here. Obviously, with a torque wrench, one can avoid stripping the oil pan drain bolt.

Aiming to do it this WE so if anyone has other tips than posted here, would love to hear them.

Also, I see the 'drain all fluids' comment. Is there a post that documents them all or should I just search for all of them separately?

Thanks,

Patrick

**JohnAnthony** · August 30th 2017, 18:23

Using an oil extractor is purely for convenience:
-not everyone has access and storage for jacks, jacks stands, etc
-the oil pans on most M engines are designed for vertical drain, not inclined drains

You're very lucky to have a lift, it's a great tool all around, especially for basic DIY, but also for diagnosing noises.

I don't recommend torquing the oil drain bolt to the full value, for 2 reasons:
(1) your oil sump is never going to have enough pressure or vibrations to loosen the drain bolt
(2) the torque spec is for dry torque, and the pan threads will always have oil on them no matter how much you think you've cleaned them

If you do insist on using a torque wrench, I would highly recommend getting a beam type wrench for this. Beam type wrenches are not convenient for working in tight spaces, but they allow you to see how quickly or slowly you reach the desired torque value.

Drain fluids is a generic term for changing the fluids you deem necessary. If you want to start your own personal regiment/scheduled fluid service these are all the fluids in your car:
a) Coolant
b) Oil
c) Trans oil
d) Diff oil
e) Brake fluid / Clutch fluid
f) Windshield washer fluid
g)Intensive washer fluid

I assume you're not tracking the car regularly, so my recommendations for each fluid is:

a) Every 2 years
b) 5,000 miles or twice per year
c) BMW's old oil recommendation was every 30,000 miles (but you can add this to a 2yr sched)
d) BMW's old oil recommendation was every 30,000 miles (but you can add this to a 2yr sched)
e) Every 2 years
f) self explanatory
g) self explanatory

**screenap** · August 30th 2017, 21:00

Thanks so much for he insight... truly appreciated!

**screenap** · September 5th 2019, 16:23

Have there been any further thoughts/findings about 10w60 vs the 5w30. Dealer still recommending the latter. I read the info posted back in 2016 but wondering if any new info is out.

**boomster** · September 5th 2019, 20:26

This debate has been going on for nearly two decades. If you go to the M5 Board, there is a pretty unanimous consensus that 10w60 is the proper oil for these engines (M5 and Z8 share the same motor). I have been using Liqui-Moly 10w60 in my E39 M5 and Z8 and have been satisfied. High quality German product, and cheaper than Castrol.

**screenap** · September 9th 2019, 17:47

Thanks everyone - went w 10w-60 - interestingly one dealer here suggested 5w-30 and then another vehemently suggested the former.

Zercan · November 28th 2020, 18:03

Great information! I've been reading for a while and I got a lot of information. I will share this to my friends in "Smallest Portable Oxygen Concentrator"

**2112** · November 29th 2020, 02:47

Originally Posted by Zercan

Great information! I've been reading for a while and I got a lot of information. I will share this to my friends in "Smallest Portable Oxygen Concentrator"

Are you a true enthusiast or are you spamming us?

**macfly** · November 29th 2020, 15:29

I deleted him, guess he was just some kind of scammer, I try to keep them out but they do sneak in.

**Satch** · December 4th 2020, 23:38

Macfly says, "I try to keep them out but they do sneak in." Yeah, we do, we doooo!

Thread: Changing oil.

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Changing oil.

Castrol TWS 10-60

Just changed my oil per Mac's instructions!

I couldn't see an electric pump on their site....

P/n 07201

Castrol TWS 10W60

I think I can answer that one....

Is there a set torque for the drain plug?