Getting a Z8 onto 4 jack stands

[KenZ8]

I want to change my brake fluid, and would like all four wheels off at the same time with the Z8 supported on 4 jack stands (my next purchase will be a lift for the gargage!). Any suggestions on the procedure? Are there central lift points for the front and rear (our 325 has 2 rubber lift blocks, one in front by the transmission, and the other in the rear by the differential) that will bring two wheels off the ground at the same time?:confused:

[calmsea]

I'm trying to remove the CDV and would also like to have the proper instruction on how to put the Z8 on jack stands. Has anybody done that?

[macfly]

I have never done that, nor seen it done, but it would seem very straight forward. You'll need four jacks of equal strength, place each one under the lift point just inside of each wheel arch, and go around the car giving a couple of cranks at a time to each jack to lift it gradually and evenly. Once you have it at the desired height I'd suggest putting blocks of some kind under the wheels if you intend to go underneath the car just to be safe.

[calmsea]

Thanks for the advice. I guess I wasn't clear with my question. I have four jack stands and a floor jack. So I need to use the floor jack to jack up the car first in order to put the jack stands below. I can find the four jack points on the car for the jack stands. I'm just not sure where to put the floor jack. Usually the instruction comes with the car manual. But in the case of Z8, that's not the case.

[macfly]

Ahhh, then I'd lift the car from one side at the rear with parking brake on, and in gear, until that side it is high enough to get a jack stand under the front jack point, then slowly lower to rest the front end on the jack point, and the rear wheel on some bricks, or a solid block of some kind. Repeat on the other side, so both front wheels are in the air, and the rear wheels are resting on the blocks. If you still need to gain a couple of inches extra height to get the jack stands under the rear rubber points then with a very tick layer of towels lift the rear the last couple of inches from the center of the diff housing, and place the jack stands under the rear jack points.

[FWK-Z8]

My experience comes from putting a Z3 on four jackstands for winter storage back when I lived in New England. Use a rubber pad on the floor jack, and position in along a lateral line between the front and rear jack points on one side, about a foot behind the front of the door. This is pretty close to the balance point of the car, my bet is that the neutral points are about the same on a Z3 and a Z8 as they both have almost 50/50 front/rear wieght distribution.

Definitely DO NOT do as Andrew advises, and jack on the diff housing. There is no factory service manual for the Z8, but I have one for the Z3 and it warns explicitly never to jack the car on the rear diff. If you think of it, none of the vehicle loading (other than resisitive torque) goes through the diff on a car with IRS.

[macfly]

Seeing this structural image may help you. There is nothing in the manual or the workshop book we have online (in the PDF's to download area) about not using the diff housing on the Z8, but if you have the rear wheels already blocked you shouldn't have too much trouble lifting off the alternate sides, and under the rear suspension points on the rear axels - again use towels or rubber.

[calmsea]

I guess I only need two front wheels off the ground in order to get to the CDV. So I'll take Andrew's suggestion to get the front on two jack stands. That's probably the safest way.

Thanks

[jawz]

I use ramps for work not requiring the whole car to be off the ground. They give enough room to work under the car one end at a time. Should be good enough to access your CDV. Plus they're cheap and the car can't fall on you while under it. Just my 2 cents.

[Scott Pettit]

I agree with Fred Kern. I place a speed jack under my Z3 just behind the front jack point and it lifts the entire side. I then place jack stands under the jack points and then move to the other side. Some folks suggest that you place a 2 x 4 (that is short enough to fit between the front and rear jack points) between the car and jack. I don't.

If in doubt about where to place the jack, I would ask your dealership or call Dana at Peter Pan.

Personally, I would NEVER use the differential as a jack point.

Ramps are good if you can keep the damn thinks from sliding as you drive up them.

If you are in Nor Cal, you are welcome to use my lift and tools.

Scott Pettit

[SProZ8]

The 2 x 4 won't work! The plastic rocker panel extends full length and about 8" under the car with only a small area blocked out for the BMW jack point, fore and aft. Not enough area for both the jack and the jack stand on the same jack point, and definitely no support area between the jack points. I use two jacks, a speed jack and a BMW screw jack that fits the plastic jack pad that fits the jack point that I use to take two wheels off at a time and then use the jack stands for safety on the inboard parts of the frame. Four wheels is much more time consuming and requires progressive blocking under the wheels alternated with jacking.

If you don't have a plactic jack pad, they're worth the $10 price as it spaces the jack face away from the rocker panel that sits near and lower than the jack point and is subject to damage. I knock the retaining clips off the jack pad so it doesn't stay on the car, but still slots in and slides out of the jack point when the jack is removed.

[zed8]

If you only raise two front wheels, you will easily reach to CDV. There is a rubber block (jack point) in front under the engine. It is in between the two plastic engine guards. Lift the car from this point. Front two wheels will be off the ground. Then place the jack stands under the jack points on each side. Then lower the car on the jack stands.

[SProZ8]

Good info on the front center lift point. Never noticed it before. I sits between the engine and floor covershield on the lower suspension cross support. Feels more like a flimsy piece of plastic than a substantial rubber block. Alas, my jack is neither long enough nor low enough to reach it without first running the front up onto blocks. Is there a corresponding rear center lift point?

[zed8]

Good info on the front center lift point. Never noticed it before. I sits between the engine and floor covershield on the lower suspension cross support. Feels more like a flimsy piece of plastic than a substantial rubber block. Alas, my jack is neither long enough nor low enough to reach it without first running the front up onto blocks. Is there a corresponding rear center lift point?

As far as I know there is not such a center lift point at the back. Also I'm not sure whether its safe to lift the car from the diff or not.

[Grease Monkey]

SProZ8 already made the point but it is worth repeating: Do not try to lift a Z8 by its rocker panels! You will damage the body panels. While it is possible to lift a Z8 by jacking under the rear differential housing, I do not recommend this procedure. It is attached to the frame by rubber mounts and these are not intended to sustain the weight of the car. The easiest way to get under the front of a Z8 to work on it is to use a pair of ramps. This eliminates the need for a jack or jack stands. Just make sure the ramps have a gentle approach angle or you will run into interference with the front spoiler. If you want to use a jack and jack stands, you can lift the front of the car via the rubber jack pads located along the front side of the Z8 and place your jack stands under the exposed aluminum frame just inboard of the lower lateral control arms of the front suspension or adjacent to the mounting point for the anti-roll bar. Looks like a box section of frame. These areas are capable of supporting the car's weight. If you want to avoid marks on the metal framework, you can get plastic pads that fit on top of jack stands to provide protection. Or you can use the centrally located jack pad described in a previous post to lift the car but most jacks will not fit under the car far enough to reach this point. In this case, you can place the jacks under the front side rubber pads. Don't be tempted to work under the car while it is supported by a hydraulic jack: always use jacks stands for support before going under the car. And always set the e-brake and/or chock the rear wheels to prevent the car from rolling off the jack stands. Just putting the transmission in gear does not provide adequate protection against rolling. If you want to get the car up on 4 jack stands, the following procedure will work but it is not for the faint of heart. Begin by lifting the car as high as it will go by jacking from the front side rubber pad, then place your jack stands under the the front frame point described above and the rear rubber pad. Repeat this procedure on the other side of the car. It is imperative that the car be on level ground and you must monitor the jack stands carefully as you are lifting the second side of the car so that they don't shift or tip over. Of course, the best way to do all of this lifting is to use a 4 point automotive lift, which can be installed in many residential garages.

As far as brake bleeding or brake fluid flushing is concerned, while it is more convenient to have all 4 wheels off at the same time, the front wheels are on a separate circuit from the rear wheels, so it is possible to do a proper job by working on one end of the car at a time.

[macfly]

Fred, Scott and everyone else, I would not and did not advise anyone to lift the car from the ground using the rear diff, simply the last couple of inches needed to get the rear jack stands in place when the rear wheels are 'blocked'.

If you follow my instructions above you will find that lifting the car from the rear jack points will allow you to get a full 8" cinder block under the rear wheels and a jack stand under the front jack point. When I remove my jack my car is high enough to insert my jack stands, but should you need to raise it a couple of inches from the blocks because your jack stand is too tall then a lot of towels under that diff can give you the last couple of inches.

[Scott Pettit]

For those that misunderstood my post about the 2 x 4 between the jack points:

Yes you can do that. The underside of the rocker panel is backed / attached to the frame. If you are concerned about marring the underside of the rocker panel (the part that cannot be seen unless you get under the car) than I suggest that you cut and attach a piece of carpet or closed cell foam to the top of the 2 x 4.

Scott

[briandilley]

Does anyone know what jack works best with the Z8? I saw a mention of a BMW screw type jack that fits the rubber jack points in this thread. Is that a common BMW part that I can buy at the dealer? I have noticed that some jacks cause damage to the rubber jack points and I want to avoid that trend.

[Scott Pettit]

s this to carry in the car or to use in your garage. For the car, I have the BMW issued equipment. For the garage, I use a Craftsman speed jack.

[briandilley]

I could use it for both, but my car doesn't have a jack or lug wrench, so it wasn't issued one. But I would like a jack that fits the mounts.

[SProZ8]

I don't believe the Z8 came with a jack. I purchased it seperately from BMW. I comes with a sissor jack with a head that fits into the plastic jack pad. It also includes a lug wrench with a fixed torque setting that clicks when the correct torque is applied, a folding wheel chock and a case. The case fits neatly in the trunk, laterally behind the battery. Realoem indicated the part as 71106773536 with a price of $160.87. It's under section 71.95 Accessories and Retrofitting. I use it in combination with a speed jack, one jack each side, and usually carry it in the trunk. More weight = less acelleration?

[briandilley]

Perfect, that is what I will do when I am at the dealership. Sounds like a good price for the jack, wrench and case and it fits in the trunk - bonus thanks

[Scott Pettit]

In theory, cars with run flats don't need a jack. Not that I agree with RF's but....

[briandilley]

True, but I don't use run flats anymore, but I really just want it so that I can get the beast up in the air a little bit so that I can detail the undercarriage. The car is pretty cool and slick underneath and there is a lot of space there for some great detailing.

[Scott Pettit]

How about drive up ramps? You will need to use the shallow type so as to not scuff the lower body moldings.

If you are looking for an easy way to get under the car a couple of times a year, consider checking out local repair places. Some will rent you the work space and having a lift is a great way to service the undercarriage. If you are in Northern California, you are welcome to use mine.

[briandilley]

Scott, that is a good idea on the ramps and the rental bay. I will have to check that out over here on the East Coast. Unfortunately, I am not in Northern California where all the Zs are hanging out. But thanks for the offer.