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Thread: Procedure for removing the CD Player

  1. #1

    Procedure for removing the CD Player

    My CD player died a few days ago, and I just went through a trial-and-error process to extract the player from its compartment behind the driver's seat. Perhaps someone else has an easier method, but I will outline my approach for the benefit of other forum members confronting this task.

    - Remove the black plastic frame which incorporates the flashlight recharger from the top of the storage compartment. Once it popped off, I was able to maneuver it out of the way without disconnecting the power cord for the flashlight charger, although it would not be a big deal to unplug it and remove it entirely.

    -By lightly pushing the CD player toward the rear of the car, you will see three 8mm nuts on the floor at the front of the unit which attach the CD player mounting bracket to studs on the floor of the car. These nuts are approximately 8 inches below the top of the compartment, making access difficult. I used two 5" socket extensions in combination to reach the nuts. You need to maintain a light amount of pressure pushing the player rearward to give you enough room the get at the nuts.

    -Once the three nuts are removed, you can pull the player upward, but it cannot be removed from the compartment at this point due to the mounting bracket interfering with the relatively tight opening of the compartment. There are four phillips head screws, two at either end of the player, which hold the mounting bracket to the player which you must remove in order to separate the two components. This must be done while holding the combined unit partially out of the compartment. Once the bracket is removed, the player can then be lifted out of the compartment, but will still be connected by the power source and the output wires. The output plug is released by pressing on the side with two raised dots. The power cord just pulls out with firm pressure.

    -Make sure to retrieve the three nuts which will have fallen to the bottom of the compartment. I anticipate reinstallation will be simply the reverse of what I have described, the only additional challenge will be to hold the nuts in the socket while reaching down into the compartment to fasten the bracket to the studs in the floor. I am thinking of using plumbers putty to hold the nuts to the socket; fortunately, the nuts have an integrated washer which will keep them from being pushed up into the socket.

    I am shipping my unit off to a place in Texas called Willman's Electronics, it looks like the repair will be about $160.00 plus shipping. They seem to have good feedback, and the repairs come with a 12 month guarantee. I'll provide an update once I get it back together.

    Regards,

    Bill

  2. #2
    Beyond the Valley of Z8 Madness Z-acht's Avatar
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    Thanks Bill!
    Ton
    1 of the 71 original Dutch sold cars (jetblack/red)

  3. #3
    Beyond the Valley of Z8 Madness Z-acht's Avatar
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    I got the BMW TIS (technical information system) working on my Mac and I found the procedure ( including pictures :-) ) in the system ...and a whole lot more :-)
    Ton
    1 of the 71 original Dutch sold cars (jetblack/red)

  4. #4
    Any way to share that information with the group?

    Bill

  5. #5
    Beyond the Valley of Z8 Madness Z-acht's Avatar
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    I will make a scan of the procedure and translate the german text. But it will take some time
    Ton
    1 of the 71 original Dutch sold cars (jetblack/red)

  6. #6
    Closing the loop on my CD repair, I received the unit yesterday and reinstalled it this morning. No difficulties experienced in the installation, basically just reversed the removal process outlined in my first message. I placed a thin bead of plumber's putty on the end of the 8mm socket to hold the nuts in place while reaching down into the compartment, which worked like a charm. It is good to have the CD player back, I find the sound quality of the AM/FM radio to be pretty horrible, but the CD player sounds surprisingly good. Willman's Electronics (www.CDPlayerRepair.com) seems to have done a good job on the repair, the cost was $160.00 plus $20.00 return shipping.

    Bill

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